Badger & Co is a lovely spot. The decor is soft leather and exposed bulbs; tall windows let light gush in. It’s bright, cheerful and well-attended with young couples catching up or soothing sore heads when pal Gemma and I stop by on a Saturday morning.
We settle in with tea and coffee, both good quality, accompanied by tiny, endearing milk churns. (Talking of tiny, a two person teapot would be an asset to the establishment…)
Dining companion Gem, despite feeling a little worse for wear, found herself tempted not by the Full Sett breakfast comprising eggs, bacon, sausage, homemade beans, mushrooms and tomatoes, but the rather more sophisticated crumpets with scrambled eggs and smoked salmon.
It appeared elegantly on a glass plate, simple but effective, although there was a distinct lack of butter on the crumpets for our liking, which meant that whilst they were fluffy, they were a little dry. However, the smoked salmon comprised two nice cuts and the eggs were firm, generous and very well seasoned with fresh herbs.
Hangover-free, I opted for a comfort food classic of beans on toast. I was very pleased with what arrived: a doorstop slice of lightly toasted brioche (butter once again notably absent) topped with homemade baked beans. Texture-wise the beans were great, with both haricot and butter beans bathed in a mildly smoky tomato sauce, which I would gladly have eaten a lot more of.
Ever the greedy pup, I chose to accompany my beans with a roasted plum tomato, soft and plump, and a pair of poached eggs, which oozed delightfully. I also coveted the Continental breakfast brought to another table; an unusual offering for a city centre bar breakfast but one that looked good with yoghurt, apple, meat and cheese.
Overall we found that whilst short, the menu was adaptable and imaginative, and covered the usual suspects, minus eggs Benedict – but better that than a disappointing Hollandaise. Prices were reasonable for quality, well prepared, homemade produce and portions were enough to satisfy without feeling stuffed. Service was friendly and helpful; always a credit to any restaurant. Well, that sett-les it: Badger and Co is well worth a visit whenever you’re next in need of city centre brunch.
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